Leil'Appetit

Stac Polly’s Dublin Street premises is a surprisingly expansive warren of New Town cellar rooms. The atmosphere combines the plush of a Baronial Mansion with a good dash of rustic Highland Farmhouse, and crisp white linen tells us we’re in a proper restaurant. Opened in 1990, it’s one of ‘the’ original Scottish Restaurants in Edinburgh, known as a classic go-to place to take any visiting guests.

I recently dined with ‘stressed Bride-To-Be’ and we had a most enjoyable, relaxed evening. The food and wine were delivered with that elusive balance between friendly and formal. To start, B-2-B opted for the smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade

(£7.95), served with a wasabi and saffron mayonnaise. What sounded like a flavour fight waiting to happen turned out to be an excellent take on classic Scottish seafood tastes. The salmon had a light cure, and the creamy smokie filling was satisfying without being too heavy.

My starter, the haggis filo parcels (£7.95) with plum and red wine sauce is a dish of near-legend in Scottish guide books. Crisp pastry wrapped the moist spicy haggis, and the dipping sauce a sweet accompaniment.I loved it.

Main courses perhaps didn’t entirely fulfil their potential, but were satisfying none the less. I opted for the supreme of Guinea fowl (£18.95) with white wine and wild mushroom sauce. The flavoursome bird was juicy and provided a more interesting option to the ubiquitous chicken. The fondant potato was soft in the centre, and al dente broccoli and green beans provided pleasing eating. The sauce itself was slightly off-key, just a touch too rich.

B-2-B’s main was a fillet of ling fillet wrapped in Parma ham (£17.95), the main ingredients were spot on. Ling, a clean white white fish was lovingly wrapped in its salty blanket. However, the accompanying butter sauce featuring basil and chillies didn’t really work, and the sweet potato mash didn’t live up to its billing.

Desserts (all £6.75) were deliciously lush. I fell for, and enthusiastically into, the warm chocolate sponge with vanilla custard. My now less-stressed dining companion deemed the Grand Marnier and orange crème brûlée to be exemplary, and the chunk of almond shortbread I managed to steal was crumbly buttery perfection.

Stac Polly’s warm atmosphere and desserts alone merit a return trip, and that’s without even mentioning the whiskies…!

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This review appears in the April 2012 edition of Bite Magazine.

In what seems like the blink of an eye, Harvey Nichols are gearing up to celebrate their first decade in Edinburgh. The Forth Floor brasserie and restaurant, with spectacular skyline views and contemporary design, have stayed atop many a ‘destination’ dining guide since 2002. The city’s restaurant scene has changed markedly, yet Executive Chef Stuart Muir remains at the helm, consistently and confidently presenting the best of Scottish and British produce.

Gourmet Mamma and I went along to see the newly refurbished restaurant, and  as we were in celebratory mood, the Tasting Menu seemed only right. A six course feast,  it was a showcase of the finest ingredients, oh-so elegantly presented.

Dish one was North Sea mackerel with jamón Iberico , almond cream, anchovies and preserved lemon. The dish captured those classic Spanish tapas flavours, the ultimate umami appetiser with the pan-seared plump  oily mackerel, salty anchovy, and a paired Fino Sherry the perfect crisp accompaniment.

Squab pigeon breast cooked sous-vide in Shiraz (and matched with a juicy glass of the same) was the sophomore course, with beetroot and radish matching the wine’s ruby-hued colour palette. The meat was so tender its consistency near that of a pâté, its side-kicks crunchy molasses-coated hazelnuts for contrasting texture, fruity roasted pear, and an earthy flavour from puréed and baby beets.

The second fish course brought us North Atlantic halibut with pearl barley and surf clam porridge, and compressed cucumber. The fleshy white ish was perfectly seasoned, and the pearl barley provided nutty risotto-like eating. On the side, a little roulade of roasted clams and mousseline was complemented by its sweetly-flavoured pancetta blanket.

Far from collapsing into food-coma territory, we eagerly anticipated the next meaty course. Slow-cooked Ayrhire pork belly with cognac soaked prunes, black pudding and cocoa nibs. The succulent pork meat was encased in a sizeable parcel of crisp brik pastry But refinement is this menu’s guiding mantra, from the perfectly turned baby vegetables, the sprinkling of aromatic cumin and caraway seeds, and fresh bursts of micro herb flavour.

Next, dessert, or  ‘Rock’ as it was billed, was lunar in its sparsity yet impressive in its technical skill. Lumps of aerated milk and dark chocolate à la posh Aero bar, tonka bean ice cream, an almost literal interpretation of sponge cake flavoured with almond and hazelnut, and spheres of an aromatic passion fruit coulis. If it had been a ‘teaser’ ahead of a belter of an unctuous pud, perhaps it would have satisfied a bit more. Slightly frustrating, however cheered up by a glass of golden Vin Santo.

The charming waiter wheeled the trolley over and cheerily furnished us with a small chunk of each of the seven offered cheeses. Soft Brie-styles led on to tangy goats’ and fierce blues. The honeycomb, crunchy music bread, home-made chutney and glass of port a fittingly luxurious end to the dining event.

At £55 (£90pp with paired wines) this the tasting menu is in the realm of ‘special occasion’ dining, so I’d urge you to hastily think up some (read: any) reason to grab a window table at the Forth Floor, sit back and let your tastebuds in for the ultimate treat.

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When any new restaurant opens, the first couple of months  can prove either devisive or decisive in terms of how the reaction will be. Thanks to a pretty intense , and I guess successful PR campaign, the first thing I knew about Steak (part of the No. 12/14 Picardy Place development) was that I really disliked their marketing images. An anaemic looking model plays seductively in an abbatoir, indescriminately licking bits of raw meat . It’s evident from her frame that she’s very hungry.

My second impression was gleaned from the launch event back in February. Late for their own opening party (admittedly, anyone who works in hospitality has been there), this was combined with a very confused drinks service. Pre-mixed G&Ts for all, prosecco for the few, Perrier-Jouët for the even fewer, and a cash bar for the rest. Tragically and worst of all, was that there was only the merest suggestion of actual food. The interior was stunning, an amazing transformation of the high-ceilinged space formerly known as a million things including a casino, Club Ego, The Green Room. Now a large room wearing fairly stern colours of grey and slate, the space was cleverly sub-divided with overhead structuring and floor-level  bookshelves which created different sections including an inviting central dining table. The design-worship would have to wait though, as hunger pangs kicked in. We bolted out the door for a magnificent burger over the road at The Basement.

I spotted the very keenly priced pre-theatre menu offering 3courses for £20, this was a good time to try out what Steak was really all about.  My dining companion, Sandy of West and I had a lot of catching up to do (each with exciting tales of new opportunities and jobs ) and given that we likes a good steak, this seemed like a good place for the rendezvous.

Right away, I was impressed by the service.  The server (Sophia) was extremely knowledgeable about the available cuts of meat and the wine list too. Ordering  la carte would perhaps take a little getting used to here, for the steaks anyway. Three different breeds are offered, various different cuts and all priced per 100g. It would seem relatively easy to spend £30 on a steak before any side dishes, which is way out of my budget.

Thankfully the pre-theatre kept things pretty simple. I decided to start with the pork cheek and shallot terrine. On the plate a few artistic dots of parsley mayo, and thin slivers of crispy sourdough toast. Despite the myriad candles, lighting was woefully dim in our little corner but what I could see was elegantly presented. The pressed terrine had a nice sweetness to it, and a generous tranche allowed for a good number of mouthfuls.

Sandy’s oxtail soup with puff pastry lid was proper meals on wheels stuff, thick, and unctuously rich. High praise, and I know a certain Silver Fox who would have enthusiastically rolled his spoon around this dish ’til empty, and possibly have asked for seconds.

Main courses were where we met the steaks at Steak. We perhaps over-complicated the order for our 200g sirloin steaks.  I asked for medium rare, sandy asked for medium to well. I ended up with medium, and Sandy was served well done. Nevertheless, this was juicy steak, the ‘authentic’ grill criss-crosses letting us know how they’d been cooked. On the side, a dinky little pan with a suitably thick Bearnaise sauce. Accompanying French Fries were average, but in all, a good meal. Side dishes, priced  £3 each,  added some colour we think! Buttered spinach with hazelnuts was superb, the pickled baby carrots with star anise were verging on the uncooked, but I’d much rather than than soggy ones. Nice little touches such as kiln jars with side sauces including home-made ketchup, and a selection of mustards let us know the kitchen are aiming high.  

Dessert for me was distinctly average, fruit crumble with ripple ice cream.  The crumble was in a mini Le Crueset style cast iron pot and I enjoyed the nuts through the crumble topping but the fruit (apples? it really was that dark!) were  a bit too firm, not quite sweet enough, and the crumble topping a little dusty. The ice cream was ok. Sandy, on the other hand, really enjoyed her millionaire’s shortbread cheesecake  and demolished it with gusto.

To give Steak a fair review, I will definitely go back for the full menu, and the place has an undeniable ‘cool’ about it.  Mention should go too to the excellent wine list. Think Meatpacking district warehouse restaurant. Also, I hear the new cocktail lounge downstairs Dry Martini which just opened is going to be quite the spot for a splash or two of the good stuff.  Getting thirsty already…

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Once upon a time, ‘yours truly’ was was the Events Co-ordinator at this boutique hotel, and I was excited to hear that they’d recently opened their long-planned bar. Prior to becoming a hotel, the Victorian townhouse has had an illustrious history, both as a private medical practice and latterly as halls of residence for Edinburgh University’s medical students. The new bar has aptly been titled ‘The Consulting Room’, and The Silver Fox and recently I stopped in for a pre-prandial before going to dinner. Dry martinis were just what the doctor ordered.

Through in the restaurant, the atmosphere was relaxed with a mix of hotel guests and locals. Reflective of their 2AA Rosettes, the à la carte menu features fancy fare, however tonight we were in to try the prix-fixe Market Menu. At £16.50 for two,and £20 for three courses it’s succinct but classy, with three choices per course.  

A dainty amuse-bouche of carrot and cumin soup arrived to kick-start our appetites ahead of our first course. Mushroom risotto with a parmesan froth for me, and for monsieur, a terrine of hare with piccalilli. The terrine was sweet and gamey without being overly so, contrasting with the mellow hazelnuts studded through it. Risotto can be a claggy mess, but this was the best I’ve ever eaten with an incredible depth of flavour from the stock, creaminess and the wild fungi retaining their requisite bite. Heavenly!

My main was pan-fried (and Fish-Fight friendly) sea coley with herb spätzle and crayfish bisque. The white fish was cooked just so, and the buttery bisque was wonderful, the sauce coating each little spätzle noodle. Across the table, monsieur heartily tucked in to his duo of pork, accompanied by crushed burgundy heritage potatoes and verdant kale. Of the duo, I thought the sweet braised belly meat the clear flavour winner, with the roasted loin being just slightly on the dry side

On to desserts, and my fella’s Drambuie and honeycomb parfait was sweet but light, decorated with a candy praline and infinitely steal-able. My silky dark chocolate marquise was full-on rich, and with a  tuile of coco nibs that would knock any chocco-lover’s socks off.

The Auld Alliance of Gallic flair and Scottish ingredients are always going to be a winner, and  so the daily changing Market Menu at The Bonham might just be the best value in the ‘burgh.

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Surprises come in all shapes and sizes, or so it seems. When The Silver Fox and I recently headed out to South Queensferry for tea by the sea (ok,technically it’s an inlet), the first thing I noticed was that the Forth Rail Bridge’s lights were conspicuous in their absence. I had my new camera all ready for some ‘atmospheric’ night time shots at this fabulous landmark, and instead I found myself peering out across the water at an indistinct version of the bridge’s familiar form. Apparently they’ve been out for ages, and they’re saving the re-introduction to be part of the Olympic Flame’s journey through Scotland later in the summer. Oh well.

Surprise number two that same evening came in the form of a rather lovely dinner at The Boat House. South Queensferry doesn’t exactly seem to be awash with a huge choice of places to eat, so locals must be delighted with this place.

The Boat House comprises a bar, bistro and ‘proper’ restaurant,  but none of these can really be seen from the street level entrance, so it’s a bit of a mystery punt in some ways, if you’re not already familiar with the place. The stairs took us down to the more relaxed bar area, and with a North-facing aspect , I’ll bet the views are amazing in the daytime and on summer nights. Having said that, the more formal ‘restaurant’ side was made up of a couple of smaller rooms, and the crisp décor and linen-clad tables made this a lovely spot for winter dining.  A few nautical touches here and there brought the theme together, and the focus on the menu from chef/patron Paul Steward is very much from the sea.

A post-birthday celebratory glass of prosecco for me, and a single  pint of Stella for Monsieur (who was in charge of the wheels) to look over the menu. I was 1/2 of a second to slow to shout shotgun on the scallops with Stornoway black pudding, and so I selected the smoked haddock fishcakes with homemade tartare sauce for myself.

My fishcakes were a bit of a gamble, as sometimes I find smoked haddock a bit too, erm, smoky! As it turnsout, the soft fishcakes were delicious. A convincing but still delicate flavour from the fish was blended with well-seasoned potato and herbs. As with everything to went on to eat that night , the presentation was absolutely gorgeous too.  Graeme’s plate was a full one too, the kitchen seeming to like ’3s’. Three excellently cooked Oban scallops, just the right level of searing on the outside to bring out those sweet caramelised flavours. The now almost ubiquitous pairing with the black pudding showed why this dish is so popular in Scotland, meaty but not over-powering the scallops.

I had a mild temptation to try a steak, but in the main this is a seafood restaurant, so it made sense to stick with the sub-aquatic offerings. I selected the yellow-fin tuna with mango salsa (£18.95), and G had the wild Scottish halibut with an orange, ginger and pink peppercorn reduction (£19.95) . The actual size of the fish portions were generous, and my tuna was the ‘dream’ version of how a seared piece of this fish should be. Still just translucent in the centre, blackened with flavoursome stripes from the grill. It was so good that I’m craving it again, as I write this on a Sunday morning. The fresh mango and spring onion salsa was great and merited me asking for a wee extra portion. The second version of which was even better as still cold from not having sat on a heated plate.

G’s halibut was a lovely piece of clean white fish, and the sauce was a particularly moreish take on burnt orange. My thoughts were that the halibut was  a wee bit overcooked (it was a massive cube) but G refuted it, and enjoyed his main. Both dishes came with a selection of fresh al dente vegetables, if slightly mixed-season with turned baby carrots, asparagus, tenderstem broccoli and cherry tomatoes. For the record the tomatoes weren’t al dente, but soft and deliciously sweet.

Desserts (all £4.50)were of a good standard and home-made, however I don’t think pastry is necessarily the kitchen’s strongest point. In fact, I’m pretty sure that the bread we ate at the start was supermarket tiger bread. Nevertheless, the sticky toffee pudding was a gem, deep in flavour and spongy without being too insignificant in texture. The accompanying vanilla ice cream was of a good standard, but I think this is the kind of dish that would be better presented in a bowl to allow for a better mix of toffee sauce and meltage on the ice cream. Oh, and more of that toffee sauce please! G’s vanilla pannacotta was silky, with the requisite ’wobble-factor’ and a true vanilla flavour. The accompanying apple purée was a bit lost, as it meant the dish just seemed a bit wet (perhaps appropriate for a seafood place).  Some kind of shortbread or biscotti would have made a nice ‘alternating’ bite.

With its relaxed atmosphere, well-written wine list, great soundtrack ( I got the giggles when ‘La Mer’ came over the speakers),  and charming front of house team, The Boat House is definitely the kind of place that you’d love to have as your local bistro. Whether it’s quite at the stage of ‘destination dining’  I’m not 100% on, but we’ll definitely come back again later in the year. Tuna for me again, and next time hopefully I’ll get to see that bridge!

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This review appears in February’s edition of Bite Magazine.

If the teenage version of me could have had a ‘dream restaurant’, then the blueprint might have looked a lot like Wannaburger. It’s the ultimate 21st-century diner offering modern gloss, a pop soundtrack and relaxed vibe. The dining concept is ‘ Americana retro’ with freshly grilled burgers, hot-dogs and drinks like coke floats. If you’re looking for inexpensive fast food without the guilt-trip of dodgy ingredients and mountains of polystyrene, this is the place for you.

Mamma ‘carnivore’ and I went along on a Saturday evening and took a seat at one of the booths. Decisions were quickly and easily made, based on this month’s meaty-themed issue of Bite. In other words, no veggie burgers! After ordering at the till, I was handed a pager (Tagline: If I’m shakin’, your burger’s waitin’) and returned less than five minutes later to collect our feast.

First for tasting was the char-grilled bacon cheeseburger (£3.95) sandwiched in a soft bun and pimped with sliced pickles and flavoursome tomatoes. The meat patty of Scotch beef had good seasoning and overall the burger was the perfect manageable size. The poultry option was a grilled whole free-range chicken breast fillet (£5.95) with tender lettuce leaves and mayo. Tastier and infinitely healthier than your average ‘mystery-meat’ breaded chicken burger.

Not fearing for our meat-credits for the week, we also shared a Bavarian Smokie (£3.95). A Traditional smoked sausage; it was piled with oodles of sauerkraut on top. I thought the dog’s bun was a bit oversized, but it’s a tiny gripe. We took advantage of the offer of free accompaniments, and chose the house relish made with fresh tomatoes, onions and with spicy little zip. It was perfect for dunking the battered onion rings and crispy fries into.

The drinks deserve a mention too, as where else in Edinburgh can you team your dream burger up with a can of authentic A&W Root Beer, a pint of organic Black Isle Brewery Pale Ale (only £3.50), or an Elvis-worthy peanut butter and banana milkshake?

Did we manage to resist finishing with a TKO of a sundae with rich chocolate and vanilla ice cream, toffee sauce and brownie chunks? Not likely. My teenage self would never have forgiven me.

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